The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and over three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from development by creating permanent, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a barrier on